Thoreau famously wrote, in Walden, that the mass of men lead lives of quiet desperation, and I suppose he was right. Remember, though, that’s only most men. Some men lead lives that are so full of accomplishments, derring-do, scrapes, fights, learning, loving and adventure that it almost defies the imagination. Some men lead lives that make James Bond look like a homebody.
One of those men was named Richard Burton.
No, not that one. The other one.
Not this guy.

This guy.
If you ask one hundred people on the street who Richard Burton was, probably ninety-nine of them will say “that Welsh dude who was married to Liz Taylor.” To me, this is indicative that we are a fundamentally unserious people.
Since there’s nothing wrong with being unserious from time to time, but there’s a lot wrong with being, you know, fundamentally unserious, let me tell you about Richard Burton. The other one.
The other Richard Burton is one of my true, genuine, authentic heroes, a man who excelled in fields as diverse as sword fighting, sex, ethnology, languages and exploration. Born at a time when the sun never set on the British Empire, Burton traveled in India, Central Asia, the Middle East, Europe and the Americas, in service to King and Country and his own restless, insatiable curiosity.
Wikipedia introduces Burton as “an English explorer, translator, writer, soldier, orientalist, ethnologist, linguist, poet, hypnotist, fencer and diplomat.”
Born into a poor Anglo-Irish family, and from the very beginning he was one of those fellows who never quite fits in. His father was distracted, and a chemist, and the family knocked about Europe, living in both France and Italy during Richard’s formative years. During that time, he showed his linguistic ability by learning French, Italian, Neapolitan and Latin, and some of the Roma language.
In England and Ireland, the Roma, or gypsies, are called Tinkers. Due to his dark good looks, there was some speculation that Burton was a gypsy . . . but that was probably the malicious gossip of jealous men.
Burton attended Trinity College, Oxford, where he added Arabic to his linguistic repertoire, and spent the rest of his time flying falcons, fencing, and going to steeplechases in violation of college rules, which led to his expulsion. Leaving for the last time, he drove his carriage through the flower beds of the college—-not the last time he’d whizz in the Imperial Wheaties.
Exasperated, his father purchased him a commission in the Indian Army, which, of course, meant the East India Company. Burton said dismissively of himself that he was “fit for nothing more than to be shot at for sixpence a day.” More languages followed—-Hindustani, Gujarati, Punjabi, Marathi, Persian and additional refinements to his Arabic. In the army of John Company, Burton continued to not fit in.
At the time, British India was changing. In the early stages of colonialism, the British had run things very few people indeed. As time marched on, more people began to come over to India from England, and increasingly, “people” meant women as well as men. This changed the social dynamic of the British in India. Whereas previously, it was considered no bad thing for an Englishman to consort with natives, the arrival of Englishwomen meant that native mistresses—or, God forbid—wives!—were increasingly frowned upon.
Well, Burton was having none of that. He was, you might say, interested in sex, and he was interested in India, and he thought that one of the best ways to learn about a new culture, to learn a new language, was to engage in what they used to call the Act of Venus with locals. (To this day, many linguists will admit that a “pillow teacher” is the best way to learn a new language.)
This was, of course, the Victorian age, and Queen Victoria had famously been advised on her wedding night to “Lie still and think of the Empire”—-it was a time when female sexuality was, shall we say, not enthusiastically celebrated among the English.

We do not ‘get jiggy’
He also kept a menagerie of monkeys, in the hopes of observing them long enough to crack the code of their language. History doesn’t confirm that one of the thirty or so languages he spoke was Monki.
The more time he spent learning languages, learning customs, and making the beast with two backs, the less he fit in with the regular Britishers he served among. He was admired for his ferocity—his nickname was “Ruffian Dick” both because of his “demonic ferocity” and because he had “fought in single combat more enemies than perhaps any other man of his time.”
What do you do with a soldier who doesn’t fit in? A soldier who is darker than the average Englishman, and speaks the languages? You send him on detached duty, in other words, you make him a spy. There isn’t a whole lot of information about Burton’s spy-like activities around, but one of his detractors wrote, in an obituary, that Burton traveled extensively in areas that later became of interest to the Empire, and if you can read between the lines at all, that says “Burton was a spy.” He was officially attached to the Survey of India, in the Sindh region.
No, I’m not a spy.

That led to Burton deciding to see what Mecca was like. So, in Burtonesque fashion, he up and went. He disguised himself as a Muslim, actually as a variety of Muslims, including a Pashtun tribesman, had himself circumcised to lower the risk of detection, and went to Mecca, enduring bandit attacks on the caravan he was traveling with. Now, at that point in time, Europeans basically got to see Mecca if they were slaves, and no other way. Non-believers (i.e., “kaffirs”) discovered in Mecca tended to get ripped, as the phrase goes, limb from limb, or occasionally just hacked to death.
Burton was in pretty severe danger the whole time, but Burton was a wolf among dogs, and pretty near everything he ever did involved a fair chance of being ripped limb from limb.
Roaming all over the Indian subcontinent in disguise, and then making the Hajj (in disguise) would be enough adventure for ten or fifteen normal men, but Burton wasn’t normal, and he next set his sights on Africa.
Now, Africa’s a big place, and in the 19th century it was still very much the Dark Continent, dark in the sense of “we still don’t really know all that much about it.” There were plenty of things you could do to explore Africa, and Burton, unsurprisingly, picked out one of the hardest nuts to crack: he set forth in search of the source of the Nile.

Yeah, they made a board game

The next time, in the company of John Hanning Speke, Burton pushed deeper into Africa. Traveling in Africa was no picnic back then; it’s no picnic now. The stockbroker-turned-hunter Peter Hathaway Capstick used an expression in a lot of his books: Africa wins again. That phrase refers to the many, many ways Africa can kill you: angry natives, irate wildlife, bugs, germs and bacteria. Neither Burton nor Speke actually died, but if Africa didn’t win, it got its licks in on them. Suffering mightily, the expedition discovered Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria, although Burton, unable to walk, was back in camp when Speke trekked to Lake Victoria.


They fell out, afterwards, Burton and Speke, and quarreled and fought over the issue when they got back to England. Speke died in a “hunting accident” the day before he was to debate Burton about the results of the expedition, and that was the last of Burton’s great adventures. He settled down, got married, and joined the Foreign Service, being posted to Ferdinand Po, Brazil, Damascus and Trieste.
When a doctor asked him how he felt when he killed a man, Burton replied that he generally felt quite jolly, and how did the doctor feel when he killed a man?
He died in 1890, and his wife, Isabelle Arundell, burned vast quantities of his writings, fearing popular reaction to Burton’s unpopular views on everything from imperialism to sex to religion. It’s not quite the burning of the Library of Alexandria, but at times I ache with the thought of the wit and wisdom lost when she did it.
Richard Burton was a man who did not live a life of quiet desperation. He studied religion, he was a swordsman of renown (in both sense of the word), he was a linguist and a spy and an explorer, and he walked his own path with scant regard for what people thought of him. Tinker, tailor, soldier, spy, rich man, poor man, beggarman, thief.
In conclusion, I’ll quote from an obituary of Burton:
England must be indeed rich in talent when she can afford to waste in the routine of consular duties a man of the courage, the capacities, and the vast acquirements of Burton. It is true he was ill fitted to run in official harness, and he had a Byronic love of shocking people, of telling tales against himself that had no foundation in fact, but he might have rendered greater service to his country had a sphere of activity been found for him adapted to his special qualifications. The knighthood bestowed upon him in 1886 was but an empty honour.
Lest we forget















